Set Project Look 5: Raziel Sewing Process

Raziel is composed of 2 pieces, a skirt and a top. The shoes and bag are considered accessories and will be styled in the pictures.

To begin with I chose a polyester (satin) fabric for the base and fabric paint to paint the graphics which will be in another post. For the sewing and making of Raziel, I used scissors, black and white thread, a sewing machine, needle, pins, measuring tape, paper, iron, fabric and an ironing board. 

I measured myself and the measurements were: waist-72cm, breast area- 84cm, hips-94cm and the length for the skirt 36cm.

I began by drawing the pattern and cutting the fabric using the pattern.

Below are the pieces for the skirt.

I cut 2 pieces.

These are for the inline.

Again, 2 pieces.

These are for the skirt inline.

These are for the skirt.

These are for the inline of the top again in order to allow the ruched element.

4 pieces as shown.

These were for the front of the top and back, 4 pieces.

These are strips for the thin laces.

I began by passing the black thread inside the needle of the sewing machine.

I then folded the fabric in half and I just put the scissors there to show it as I did not have another free hand.

I then began sewing it in the middle as shown.

I then passed the thread doubly inside the needle in order to have 4 "lines" in order to allow it to be more stiff and steady when passed.

I then began cutting the excess fabric from the strip.

This is what it looked like after cutting.

I then passed the needle through both sides twice and then took the bottom part of the needle where the thread is passed and passed it through the "tube" until it came out from the other side.

A close up:

The needle passing through.

This is what it looked like after coming out from the other side. 

I then began pulling the fabric downwards in order to reveal the lace. This was done to turn the fabric the other way around and form mini tubes/laces.

I then began sewing the bigger pieces of the top.

I then connected them together to form the sides under the armpit.

I double sewed them.

An overview:

This is what both pieces looked like:

I then ironed both pieces so the thread went in easier and more straight to avoid defaults.

Close ups:

I then cut the excess in order for both pieces to be of equal size.

I then made the pleats for both sides.

A close up:

I then began sewing the sides.

Double sewing again to define it.

Ironed again.

I then began sewing the pleats in.

This is what it looked like.

A better close up:

This is what all the layers looked like before being sown:

A close up:

I had 4 straps in total.

I ironed them to make them straight to look more defined, and ironed where the lining of the thread was.

A comparison of ironed and un- ironed.

I then began sewing the front in order to create holes for the straps.

A close up:

I then passed the lace in the hole using a pin to make it easier.

This is what it looked like when I put the pins to hold the strap in place in order to sew the bottom strap space together in order to not move and stay ruched.

I then sowed the strap to close.

A close up:

For the skirt I began sewing the biggest pieces together first.

A big and a smaller piece.

A close up:

I then connected the other pieces together.

This was the opening for the zipper hence I continued to sew straight as I could then cut the excess thread before sewing the zipper in.

I double sewed again to secure the skirt and show the detail. ( I apologise for the image I had to take a screenshot from the computer as I airdropped them from my phone and had to convert them from heic to jpg using the screenshot method).

This is what it looked like halfway.

Overview:

I then sewed the side.

I then sewed the part above the zipper as if I let it loose it would be a mess.

I then placed the zip to see if it fits.

I began sewing the zipper.

This is what the skirt looked like before the ruching. 

Here it is:

I then again sewed over for the "holes" to pass the lace in.

A close up:

From the front:

I then sewed the 2 laces together and ended up not needing the fourth one as the first piece for the shirt was long enough.

I then passed the lace again inside and around to the other side using a pin to make it easier.

This is what it looked like.

Overall this look was extremely difficult to make and very time consuming as it took me almost 2 full days to finish without breaks. The sewing machine facilitated the process but you have to be careful in order to not rip your fingers or sew them in accidentally. In addition my hand had to be very steady and move slowly in order to sew straight and not crooked. I went to my mums atelier to use the sewing machine as I do not have one at home. Overall I am very happy with the results as I did not believe this is how it would turn out. It is not perfect but I am satisfied overall and the images are not as exact as I had to work fast and only had one free hand. The 2 piece has to be painted and photographed as well.