Set Project: Research on sustainable materials

 The highlight of my collection is the fact that it will be sustainable. Sustainability in my opinion is the future of fashion as fast fashion is getting 'too old' and evolvement is the key to success, especially when people start realising the side effects of the industry and the contribution towards environmental factors.

Before actually starting to draw out my designs it is very important to look at organic and sustainable options in order to envision the material available for each design. Below are some alternatives to regular materials used in the industry.

Pineapple leather

'Fruit' leathers have gained traction for being innovative, smelling nice but also being sustainable. Pinatex, is a material which is animal free and is like regular leather only more sustainable. It is made from pineapple leaves and uses less water than normal alternatives. Also it does not release toxins as it is completely natural and the leftovers are used for biomass and fertilisers. In my opinion this is similar to ZOA which is a leather alternative that is grown using protein and cellulose and is completely animal free(1).

Pinatex

Wool

Wool is considered a sustainable material as it is long lasting and natural(2) but in my opinion even though sheep are not slaughtered i still believe it is animal cruelty as the sheep are fed only to be manipulated for their wool and no one can be sure if the animals do not go under horrendous processes until the wool is cut. I still believe it is a controversial material hence i will try to not incorporate it in my collection.

Wool

Rubber from algae

Algae can be manipulated into growing in moulds. One will wonder what is meant by that? Due to algae having growing effects, it can be placed into moulds of eg a dress and grow into the exact mould. It is like 3D printing but natural and has no waste product. It is flexible and can be manipulated to have a texture the same as cotton, threads and other materials due to its flexibility by adding more cellulose(3). 

algae rubber process

Rubber Algae

Squid's in

Tandem repeat is a company which synthesises proteins that have self healing properties which are inspired from the structure of the proteins in the teeth of squids. With these new proteins they create materials used in the textile industry under water conditions. This is an alternative method to synthetic fibers can be used to create stronger garments(4). I really found this method of programmable textiles  interesting as it shows you how much science can be manipulated in the fashion industry to create sustainable clothing.

Squids in

Vegan Fur made from Plants

Koba is a type of fur made by Dupont and Ecopel.

Koba is made from corn-based components which in other words are a by-product from the bio-fuel sector  which would normally be thrown away(5)(6).

Koba Faux fur(x Stella McCartney)

QMilch

This is a silk like fabric made from sour milk or in other words spoilt milk. During the production process it does not use chemicals and uses a lot less water than the production of cotton(7). Not only is it an ideal fabric for the environment as it uses less resources to be made and it is less to no polluting towards the environment but also for people with over sensitive skin or people with sicknesses like cancer(8). 

Finished product using Qmilch

After researching these complex materials, it is time to look at more common sustainable materials.

Organic cotton: is one of the most common natural fabrics as it is grown without pesticides, fertilisers and chemicals(9).

Organic Cotton Fabric

Cotton Plant

Organic Bamboo linen: It is made from bamboo without actually killing the plant but by harvesting it. Bamboo is also a good alternative as it can withstand rainfall but also absorb more CO2 than most trees(10).

Organic Bamboo Linen

Organic Hemp:Organic Hemp is similar to cotton but requires much less water to grow. This also causes it to be harder to grow hence making it more expensive but it is also better for the environment as it absorbs a lot more CO2 and is considered carbon negative hence making it good for the soil(11).

Organic Hemp

(1)(2)Jones, L., Six fashion materials that could help save the planet [online] Available at:<https://www.bbcearth.com/blog/?article=six-fashion-materials-that-could-help-save-the-planet>[Accessed at 10 February 2021]

(3)O'Leary, M.(2019) Could algae be the future of sustainable fashion? [online] Available at:<https://fashionjournal.com.au/fashion/could-algae-be-the-future-of-sustainable-fashion/>[Accessed at 10 February 2021)

(4)Janulis, C.(2020) How tandem repeat is using squid to disrupt the textile industry [online] Available at:<https://sea-ahead.com/news/2020/6/18/how-tandem-repeat-is-using-squid-to-disrupt-the-textile-industry>[Accessed at 10 February 2021]

(5) https://www.fauxfurinstitute.com/koba

(6)https://www.ecopel.com/koba---bio-based-faux-fur.html#article-start

(7) Chang, J.(2012)QMilch: Clothes from Milk [online] Available at:<https://www.ippinka.com/blog/qmilch-clothes-from-milk/>[Accessed at 10 February 2021]

(8)Database(2016)QMilch-Clothing made from Milk [online] Available at:<https://database.az/en/article-view/2154#>[Accessed at 10 February 2021]

(9)http://aboutorganiccotton.org

(10)https://ettitude.com/fabrics/not-bamboo-sheets-created-equal/

(11)https://www.sustainablejungle.com/sustainable-fashion/sustainable-fabrics/#item%203